History of Clarke County Virginia – White Post

Copyrighted by Thos. D. Gold
BerryVille, Virginia
1914

CHAPTER VII. WHITE POST BY DR. H. C. SOMMERVILLE

ONE of Clarke County’s noted villages, noted especially for its antiquity, was founded, or rather not founded at all, just came so, in colonial times. It was an English settlement under the rule and owner ship of his Excellency, Lord Thomas Fairfax, whose house such as it was, a large one story log building, with no Lady Fairfax in it, was situated only a mile and a half distant. The location of this noted settlement was where two roads met and crossed at right angles. One road was quite a distinguished highway coming from East Tennessee, following the valley of Virginia all the way, taking in the several settlements of Lexington, Staunton, Harrisonburg, Woodstock, Strawsburg down to Newtown, now bearing the misplaced name of Stephen’s City. At this point the road left the main valley trail, turned east for White Post, Alexandria and Baltimore. Many stopping places or Taverns were needed to accommodate teamsters and travelers. White Post furnished one of these taverns, now standing, at this date, as in the long past. Water was vital —hence a well was dug. It bears the name of the public well and furnishes water today as it did in the days of the teamsters. It is located on the Media lot, formerly owned and occupied by a very saintly lady, Miss Mary Meade, sister of Bishop Meade of Virginia. Very much history of interest is connected with this Tennessee road. The other road of not much note, led from Battletown, now Berryville, to Front Royal. At the crossing of these two roads a post was planted and on it a sign board was nailed with directions to ”Greenway Court,” the Capitol or seat of Government of all that territory, known as the Northern Neck of Virginia. Lord Thomas Fairfax just mentioned being the owner, ruler and king. I can’t say how the word ‘White” originated, I suppose Lord Fairfax ordered it, (the post) white washed, that being the start perhaps and the reason for keeping up the whitewashing business, both on buildings and in government circles, etc., to this day. Strange to say the Post never lost its identity. As one would fail and decay, another would take its place with an improvement on the former. Today there stands in the same spot a large tell. locust post neatly enclosed with dressed boards painted white. On the top of which a large Kerosene lamp rests, to give light (when lighted) to the way-farer or others, that they may see which of the four roads to take. Grand old Post a mark of antiquity, and what a history it could it could tell. It could tell of the splendid country and fine farms of which it is the center. It could tell of the owners of those farms, many of whom were among the best people of the land—chivalric, hospitable, intelligent, refined. White Post had an awakening gradually and became quite a center of trade. This started mainly through the efforts and enterprise of Mr. Oliver Funsten, whose store houses—substantial buildings of stone and brick, were built on the several corners of the crossing of the roads. There was a store room in the tavern, occupied by the following merchants, namely: R. K. Meade, Hiram P. Evans, E. W. Massey, W. Weaver, perhaps others, among whom it is said was a Capt. Wm. Sommerville of revolutionary times, who settled here about the year 1786 and lived on the White Hall estate. I am told they all did a good business. Besides the needs of the white citizens, there were many slaves, whose owners did not fail to provide through the stores, for their every day wants. Then came a post office of the same name. The mail was carried on a horse once a week. This was the event of the day and times. A general social meeting day of the citizens to discuss crops, political events, every phase of gossip that could be mentioned. I like those old time meetings, so cheery and open and free —they did good —made kinder hearts —better neighbors —knew each other better and had more interest in each other than now in the modern method of handing you your mail from the road side. It is true we would have our little differences. Our ups and downs, perhaps a ”spat” now and then, in imitation, you know, of our larger and neighboring town of Battletown. Our educational interests though limited were not neglected. The pioneer teacher was Mr. John Dow—a Scotchman—quaint and peculiar as is characteristic of the Scotch —believing the main things necessary for an education to be Latin and hickory switches. However, he held sway many years and ”none dare his right to intrude.” He exerted, it is hoped, a good in fluence on the youth of the neighborhood, “the boys” some of whom I will name, Capt. David Meade, Sr., George Meade, Wm. C. Kennerly, Capt. J. McKay Kennerly, Wm. D. Timberlake, with many others have passed to the Great Beyond, I can recall but one or two of his pupils living, David Meade, Jr., Mrs. Bush Puller, formerly Miss Belle Grubbs and sister. An amusing incident was told on the old teacher. Dr. Fauntleroy, the village doctor, had his office just across the street from Mr. Dow’s home. A patient made a professional call on the doctor one day and while there a donkey started up a great braying, the patient never having heard the like, asked to know what it meant. The doctor replied: ”Oh that is nothing, only old Dow has got the whooping cough.” Among his successors as teachers might be mentioned the names of a Miss Eunice Ballard, Walker Y. Page and Captain Simpson, etc.

There was little or nothing done to educate the slaves. Now the colored people have a fine large, modern school building, situated in the Southern border of the village two or more rooms —with basement under entire building. The purpose being to make it a Manual Training or Industrial School. This enterprise was effected mainly through the interest and liberality of Mr. and Mrs. Graham F. Blandy, of “Tuleyries.” There are at present two teachers and all the modern appliances.

The first building ever used as a school house was situated in the North-east of the Village on the land owned by Col. R. K. Meade—part of his home place —the Lucky Hit Farm. This lot of some two or three acres was well located, covered with a beautiful blue grass sod and ornamented with some grand old oak trees —for which the neighborhood is famous. Colonel Meade, not only gave the land, but it is said put up a good sized stone building, to be used as a church (or meeting house as old time people used to say) for all denominations —free to all. The building was also to be used for a school house or academy. It was here John Dow taught a number of years —his successors following him. The building was made a convenience as a kind of public hall —speeches, lectures, plays, entertainments, etc. It was finally abandoned and with the beautiful lot sold. That was a sad day for White Post —parting with her jewel—the beautiful lot. Poor old church —how like the changing links of time and things and people, they fill up the measure of their days —out live their time and are gone. Before destruction and oblivion overtook the old stone meeting house a new and modern (for that day) brick church had been built by the Methodist people, located just north, on the border of the beautiful lot, in full view of the damage and wreckage being done to the old. Like many new enterprises —the new church prospered —interest was alive, membership active and large, general attendance good. Among the Methodist Clergy we had some able good men—men of talent and piety. While the church was a denominational one; yet liberty abounded. The use of the church was granted to the Episcopalians and Presbyterians. Both used it regularly. The first under the leadership of Rev. Jos. R. Jones for a number of years. The second had Rev. Chas. White, of Berryville, for some years, both prospered. It is well to remark that provision was made for the interests of the school by erecting a new and substantial building of brick, containing two large rooms on —the upper story or floor being in one large room and was used and known as the Masonic Hall. The same building —remodeled is now used as a public school. The location is near the Methodist Church above mentioned. Among the earlier teachers in this school or academy might be mentioned Messrs. Grayson and Son—at one time having as many as ninety scholars in two rooms. After the war Geo. Turner, Geo. Kittridge, Miss Helen Smith with Miss Lula Meade, Mr. Wm. F. Meade, C. G. Massey, Mrs. Lucy McCormick and others. The scholars used to tell a funny story on Mr. Meade—they would all get their lessons aloud and make a terrible racket, this would so worry him that he would become impatient and reprimand them severely —then after everything would quiet down, he would ask their pardon. The lot on which the Methodist church was built was purchased from Mr. John Alexander —one of the land owners adjoining White Post —probably one of the largest. He was peculiar in his dress or costume —wore his hair long, tied with a string in queue style. He almost always attended service, and was importuned by some of the church members to unite with the church, his reply was, ”He had no occasion to belong to the church, because the church belonged to him,” meaning that he had assumed a certain indebtedness for the church which it had failed to cancel. This church building was not as carefully looked after as it should have been. The water spouts failed to carry the water and give the needed drainage. The walls cracked, and the bees made honey in the cracks and annoyed the worshippers —further the walls settled and became unsafe. The building was taken down and moved near the center of the town, on the west side of, and some little distance from the street. Here quite a neat, modern brick building now stands —having a church bell and belfry to tell the villagers of the assembling of the multitude and the hours of worship. Adjoining the lot on which the church stands is a neat, comfortable dwelling, with the necessary out buildings, shade and fruit trees, handsome lawn of blue grass well kept. This is the home of the preacher —the parsonage, where time and thought and means have been expended by the membership to make their pastor and family comfortable during their brief stay in their midst. On the South side and adjoining the Methodist church is an attractive lot once the home of one of the village’s distinguished characters, Mr. Daniel B. Richards, familiarly known as ”Uncle Dan.” He was a saddler by trade —lived to a good old age —spent the greater part of his life here, making saddles for both ladies and gentlemen. Horse-back being the chief means of travel at that day. He was famous for his satisfactory and skillful workman ship and many a saddle he and his partner —a Mr. McKinstrey —built, little dreaming that the time would come that the mode of travel would be so changed as to require neither horse nor saddle. This lot of Uncle Dan’s was bought by the Episcopal people as it lay adjoining the lot owned by them and on which their church building now stands. Uncle Dan’s dwelling, modest as it was, sheltered him and family many years, being no longer needed, was torn down and moved away. The Episcopal church was built in the year 1873 on the lot formerly owned by Oliver Funsten the merchant, afterward by Mrs. Washington. The lot was a most desirable one —handsome and well located —Shaving a good well of water. The Episcopal people were happy in securing it and went to work with great energy and enthusiasm in the effort to put up a church building. In this they were joined by citizens and neighbors generally, each throwing in his or her mite. The rector. Rev. Jos. R. Jones of Millwood was very active and energetic in presenting and furthering the cause among the home people and visiting the cities of Richmond, Alexandria and Baltimore. It is known as Bishop Meade Memorial Church, in memory of the late Bishop. The efforts made were encouraging and after much persevering and the incurring of some indebtedness, a large brick building, seating two to three hundred people, appeared as a reward of united efforts, as well as a home for the Episcopal membership. The church was dedicated July 13th, 1875. Within the church are two tablets, one to the memory of Rev. Jones, the other to Bishop Meade, D. D. A neat attractive chancel rail was placed in the chancel to the memory of Capt. J. McKay Kennerly, by the survivors of the Clarke Cavalry. Rev. Jones was a tried and true leader for many years. Now sad to say its doors are closed, being without a regular preacher. The large sweet toned bell, perhaps the most so in this part of the valley, seldom sounds out its charming tones to the listening and delighted ears of those who dwell in the many happy homes within a radius of five or six miles. Some years after the completion of the church, want was felt for a building for Sunday-School purposes, public lectures, entertainments of various kinds, church meetings, etc. Finally it was decided for the betterment of the citizens of the village in general, to build a town or Parish Hall, to be under the control of the Episcopal Church. Therefore, the location for the building was selected on N. E. corner of the Church lot. A neat one story structure, well finished, seating perhaps a hundred or more people, was built. This was done mainly through the liberality, effort and energy of the late Capt. David Meade, Sr., aided by a generous gift from Mr. Wm. C. Kennerly. Later on a Rectory was built on a lot given by Capt. David Meade, Sr., a noble, high-minded, genial gentleman, always having the interests of the church at heart and ever ready with his time and means to advance the good of the community. There is a considerable settlement of colored people chiefly in the northern part of the village. They have two quite respectable, good churches, with regular preaching. Among these people there are some valuable, good citizens, owning comfortable homes. The lot on which the old stone church stood is now owned and occupied by the homes of colored people. A noted saddler was mentioned, I think it would be remiss not to mention a noted harness maker and justice of the peace, Mr. W. T. Wharton, known the country over as “Bill Wharton,”a skillful, honest, energetic workman, large trade, served the public many years. He kept an alert eye on the law breakers and showed but little mercy, or rather favor. Another character, an important agent in the development of the White Post progress was Wm. Grubbs, the mail carrier. He gave his service and life to this business for thirty-four consecutive years. Poor old man; such a life: Sunshine and rain —storm and calm—mud and ice-cold and snow—no let up—no break in the monotony. The celebrated ”Hughs Suction Pump” was made here by the ”John Hughs Pump Co.,” for many years. It took the place of the old wind up, crank and axle chain or rope fix with the old oaken bucket, sung about in the long ago. A big business was done. It was known and used not only in this county, but in the neighboring and surrounding counties. There was located a tailor shop on the Berlin lot and in it worked a small man named George W. Rutter. He was fond of singing and could tell a good story; was an active Free Mason and faithful attendant had a big trade. He and his partner —A. M. Bull, made besides all things else —an overcoat with eight or ten capes —one large, one reaching near the waist, then each shorter until they reached the back of the neck. They did their work at night by the light of a tallow candle. At this date, or very recently we had electric light, made in this place by the D. Pratt Meade Electric Light and Power Co. The blacksmiths and wagon makers always had a rush of business. White Post always seemed to have an attraction for the Doctors. Perhaps it was with those in the past as it is with some of later date who came here because there was no other place for them to go. Among some of the long forgotten Dr.’s might be named Dr. Snyder and Dr. Burwell.

Then came Dr. John Fauntleroy —very prominent and very successful —abode a long while, so capable and energetic that there was no room for another. Finally the war came and took him away. The people were without a ”medicine man”—no doctor. A Dr. Wm. Sommerville from what is now West Virginia, hearing of the situation, came, offered his services and was gladly and kindly received. He was a very tall, slender, delicate man. It was said of him that he could stay on his horse (all rode horse back then) and walk or ride, just as he chose. A frail, delicate but noble, good man. Eminent and successful in his profession, of great energy and adaptability. A christian gentleman, exerting a wide influence for righteousness. He died in early or middle life. His younger brother Dr. H. C. Sommerville, after a four year’s service in the war, came here in the Autumn of 1865. Practiced jointly with the elder brother until his death, which occurred in the Spring of 1875. As remarked by a collaborator of this sketch —then the joint practice fell upon the younger brother’s shoulders and for many years he toiled in the face of difficulties, faithfully and efficiently winning to a marked degree the love and confidence of all with whom he came in contact. When deafness and failing health compelled him to give up the profession, it was a cause of genuine regret to his many friends and patrons. About the same time, 1865, Dr. Thos. M. Lewis, of Westmoreland County, Va., located here. Having had a war experience as Ass’t. Surg, in the army of some four years. An ideal old Virginia gentleman, courteous, upright, affable, honorable. He succeeded in his profession and died at his home here in the village at an advanced age. In his closing years, he lived alone — sad and lonely life of disease and suffering —his wife having died some years before his death. His body lies in the cemetery adjoining the Episcopal Church, where many other bodies of recent times He —”Sleeping their last sleep” —as well as those of the long past, whose bodies have been taken up, removed from the local burial places and reinterred in this cemetery. As a shipping point, quite a business is done at White Post Station, N. & W. R. R., in cattle, hogs, sheep and lambs. Some fine grazing farms, as the model, up-to date, Tuleyries farm, Montana Hall, Long Branch and Greenway Court farms. Besides the farms of the Messrs. Sowers and Lee in the adjoining neighborhood with many smaller estates. On these farms are bred, grazed and shipped, probably, as fine cattle as anywhere in the valley. The same may be said of hogs and sheep. Yearly shipments of cattle, 25 car loads, hogs 50, sheep and lambs 15 carloads. Heavy shipments of wheat of good milling quality. Approximately 40 car loads yearly. Quite a grass growing country and when season is favorable, large shipments of hay made. Say 50 car loads. When the contrary condition exists —it may be truly said of the country, that it is a ”thirsty land, in which no water is,” hence shipments are light. Some large orchards, well kept, yielding large returns, besides many smaller ones —hence making things very lively at the station at shipping time —not unusual to have a shortage of cars, causing much confusion and delay. Some 60 car loads shipped best years. Shipment of turkeys in Fall season large and of fine quality—probably as many as 1,000 in one year. It may be said of the ancient village that it is a picture and that the frame of the picture is in part —a beautiful grove. Here nature has done her best—planted —nurtured a forest or park of many grand old oak and hickory trees —large —some giants —very tall, straight and well proportioned, she clothes them each spring time in the most inviting drapery of green and in Autumn changes it to the varied and richest shades of color which only the failing life of the varieties of the forest leaves can make. She causes a covering, or carpet of green sward to cover the ground and each day (it may be) sends the wind to sweep —keep it bright, clean and in order —not a fallen leaf, or twig, weed, bramble or briar to be seen —truly a fitting surface for the shadows of the great oaks to rest upon and for the sunbeams coming through the oaks to meet and play with the shadows. In the early morning and late evening it is enchanting, lovely and attractive beyond compare. The only natural grove or park left in all this country. White Post’s most impressive object of interest —an ornament of beauty, charm, grandeur and loveliness. All of Clarke County, come and see it.